Dolce & Gabbana models.
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A return to “quiet luxury” and the surprising presence of warm, almost winter clothes, seemingly incompatible with global warming, are among the trends for the spring-summer 2024 season that stood out at Milan Fashion Week, AFP reported.
Understated luxury is the expression that sums up the main trend of the fashion season, which is unfolding in full force after COVID-19. There is also the idea that glamor and maximalism are giving way to discretion, which seems to aim to be eternal.
Such is the case with the Gucci fashion house, which made a radical shift from the eccentricity of Alessandro Michele to the sartorial elegance demonstrated by Sabato de Sarno, who prioritized the quality of materials and cut.
For Fendi, Kim Jones favors comfort and relaxed confidence, knee-length silk or knit skirts, modest cardigans and delicate vintage gloves.
The same trend is observed at “Ferragamo”, “Max Mara” and others. Designer Giorgio Armani, whose show ended Sunday at Milan Fashion Week, said he had finally seen fashion collections with a lot of normalcy in them, something he has been calling for for years.
Italian fashion houses want people to wear leather – in basti trousers at Fendi or suede at Roberto Cavalli, in knee-length skirts or micro bermudas at Gucci. The fashion house also offers it lacquered or with a crocodile or python print.
In his collection for Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blasi is not afraid to weave leather, twist, fold, tie and perforate it until it creates the illusion of being made of fabric. At Prada, it is aged or embellished with pearls and crystals on a dress. At Tod’s, leather is part of almost every look – logically for a fashion house known for its leather shoes.
The collections presented in Milan seem to be expecting a rather cool spring-summer season – large wool coats, various knits, woolen hats at Moschino, trench coats at Dolce & Gabbana, but also leather coats that are present and at Fendi.
“Boss” bets on down jackets, bombers, cashmere coats.
Some fashion houses positioned themselves at the opposite end of the spectrum with bikinis (“Dolce and Gabbana”), bras and casual dresses (“Versace”).
Although the color palette also relies on restraint with black, grey, white and beige, each of the designers gave their own version of green to refresh the look – lime at Gucci, emerald at Max Mara, sparkling at Armani .
At Milan Fashion Week, there was also a trend towards transparency, although not excessive.
“Roberto Cavalli” has fun with transparent dresses, abundant with ruffles, decorated with feathers, plant motifs or dots. At Dolce & Gabbana, black trench coats barely cover the underwear. Giorgio Armani played with fabrics such as tulle and organza, while Missoni’s signature geometric pattern faded into transparency.